Seasonal travelBy Clever Tourists · Published
December is cold, dry and sunny in most of Japan, and it has two halves: a quiet, cheap first three weeks, then a closure-heavy, expensive New Year. Tokyo averages about 4 to 12°C (39 to 54°F) with only about 58 mm of rain, Kyoto about 4 to 12°C (38 to 53°F), and the Sea of Japan coast and Hokkaido turn properly snowy. Late Kyoto leaves can linger into early December. Our Japan route ran in March and April 2023, not December, so all numbers below are Japan Meteorological Agency 1991 to 2020 normals and not what we had.
• Best weather: dry and sunny for sightseeing in Tokyo and Kyoto, with cold evenings. Mount Fuji views are often clear.
• Best for lights and food: Christmas and winter illuminations in Tokyo, Osaka and Kobe through December. See our winter illuminations guide.
• Fewest crowds and cheapest: 1 to about 20 December, outside the weekends.
• Skiing: resorts in Hokkaido and Nagano begin to open in December; see Niseko vs Hakuba.
• Avoid: 29 December to 3 January if you need open shops, museums and restaurants.
Typical December figures from the Japan Meteorological Agency 1991 to 2020 normals:
• Tokyo: about 4 to 12°C (39 to 54°F), around 58 mm of rain over 6 rain days and 174 hours of sun. Dry and bright, but windy and cold after sunset.
• Kyoto: about 4 to 12°C (38 to 53°F), around 57 mm over 8 rain days and 134 hours of sun. Cold nights, and occasional snow in the hills.
• Sapporo: about -4 to 2°C (25 to 36°F), around 115 mm of precipitation, mostly snow. Heavy snow is normal.
• Naha, Okinawa: about 17 to 22°C (62 to 71°F), around 110 mm. Mild but too cool for most beach days.
The Sea of Japan side gets much more snow than the Pacific side, so trips from Tokyo to Kanazawa or Takayama need winter clothes. See our Japan in winter guide and packing list.
• Chichibu Night Festival, 2 to 3 December: held on the same dates every year in Chichibu, Saitama, with the main procession on the night of 3 December, a Friday in 2027. Tourism sites say seats for the main night are sold in front of the city hall; check the Chichibu tourism association for 2027 details.
• Winter illuminations: most major cities switch on from mid November and run to Christmas or later. Dates for the 2026 to 2027 season are in our linked guide; 2027 to 2028 dates are not yet announced.
• Christmas: not a public holiday in Japan. Christmas Eve is a date-night evening, and restaurants and illuminations fill up.
• Public holidays: none in December 2027 according to the national calendar, but the year-end shutdown is real.
Kyoto's leaves peak later than most visitors expect. Japan Guide's 2026 table listed mid November to early December, and the Japan Meteorological Corporation forecast around 11 December for 2026. In early December Kyoto is still worth a visit for leaves, and with fewer crowds than November.
On our route, Kyoto, Nara and Osaka suit December. We spent 2 to 11 April 2023 across those three; see how many days in Kyoto, how many days in Osaka and what to eat in Osaka. Tokyo is strong for illuminations and clear Fuji views; see our Mount Fuji day trip guide and Hakone Freepass guide. Hakone is on our route (22 to 24 March 2023).
The Japanese year-end holiday usually runs from about 29 December to 3 January. Government offices, many museums, smaller restaurants and some shops close or shorten hours, while temples and shrines are packed on the first days for hatsumode. See our hatsumode 2027 guide and the Kyoto New Year's Eve bell guide.
Hotel prices rise sharply from about 25 December. If your dates cover the holiday, book accommodation and Shinkansen seats months ahead and keep food and transport plans for 1 January simple. Convenience stores stay open; see our convenience store food guide.
The cheap stretch is the first three weeks of December. Kyoto in early December is less crowded than in November, and Tokyo hotels are lower than in blossom season. Weekends around the illuminations remain busy.
Flights in and out of Japan peak just before Christmas and again on 3 to 5 January. See where to stay in Tokyo and where to stay in Kyoto for areas that stay open during the holidays.
If you want leaves in Tokyo, go in late November; December is past most of it. See Japan in November.
If you want shops and restaurants open, avoid 29 December to 3 January.
If you dislike cold, Okinawa is milder, but beach weather is not guaranteed. Use what to wear in Japan to pack for the cold.
Yes, especially the first three weeks: dry, sunny, cheaper and with illuminations. The week from 29 December to 3 January is busy and many places close.
Typically about 4 to 12°C with around 58 mm of rain. Evenings and wind make it feel colder.
Kyoto and Osaka often still have leaves in early December. Japan Guide's 2026 table listed Kyoto from mid November to early December.
Government offices, many museums, smaller restaurants and some shops close from about 29 December to 3 January. Shrines and temples are busy for hatsumode.
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