Where to stayBy Clever Tourists · Published
For a first visit, stay in the historic centre between the Cathedral and the river: Santa Cruz or El Arenal. The Cathedral, the Giralda and the Real Alcázar are on foot, Plaza de España is a walk through the María Luisa park, and you can be back in an air-conditioned room in five minutes when the afternoon heat peaks. Pick Triana, across the Guadalquivir, for a neighbourhood with its own market and ceramics workshops, and the Alameda de Hércules for late bars and a younger crowd. We spent 5 days in Seville, 16 to 21 August 2022, between Córdoba and Cádiz, which is as hot as Seville gets: in summer, where you sleep decides how much of the city you see.
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• First visit, 2 to 3 nights: Santa Cruz or El Arenal, beside the Cathedral and the Alcázar.
• Romantic, old lanes: Santa Cruz, the former Jewish quarter of whitewashed alleys and patios.
• Local feel and tapas: Triana, across the river from El Arenal.
• Nightlife: the Alameda de Hércules, north of the centre.
• Arriving or leaving by train: Nervión, near Santa Justa station.
• Summer visit: anywhere central with a pool or a rooftop terrace, and strong air conditioning.
What it's like: a maze of narrow whitewashed lanes, orange trees, small squares and tiled patios right behind the Cathedral and along the walls of the Real Alcázar. Many hotels are in converted townhouses built around a central patio.
Who it suits: first-timers and couples who want to walk out of the door into the most picturesque part of the city, and be first in line at the Alcázar. Book Alcázar and Cathedral tickets ahead in busy months.
Downside: it is the most touristy part of Seville, with plenty of restaurants aimed at visitors. Lanes are too narrow for taxis in places, so check how close a car can get. Rooms in old houses can be small and dark, which is less of a problem in August than you might think.
What it's like: the area between the Cathedral and the river, around the Maestranza bullring and the Torre del Oro, merging north into the shopping streets of the centre around Plaza Nueva, Calle Sierpes and the Metropol Parasol (the Setas). Wider streets, more hotels, plenty of tapas bars.
Who it suits: almost everyone. You get the Cathedral on foot, the river promenade for evening walks, and Triana a bridge away. The centre north of the Cathedral is also flat and easy with luggage.
Downside: less atmospheric than Santa Cruz at night, and some streets near the main sights are loud with groups. Ask for a room away from the street.
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What it's like: the old potters' and sailors' quarter on the west bank of the Guadalquivir, reached over the Puente de Isabel II. The Mercado de Triana sits at the end of the bridge, the riverfront Calle Betis is lined with bars, and the ceramics workshops and tile-fronted shops are a few streets in. Triana also has a long association with flamenco.
Who it suits: travelers who want a real neighbourhood with views back to the Giralda and the Torre del Oro, and slightly better prices than Santa Cruz. The Cathedral is about a 15 to 20 minute walk.
Downside: that walk is a lot at 4pm in August. Fewer boutique hotels, more apartments.
The Alameda de Hércules is a long tree-lined square north of the centre, ringed with bars and terraces that fill late in the evening. It is the best base for nightlife and for a younger, more local crowd, and it is closer than most areas to La Cartuja; our Copa del Rey final guide uses it as a base. Light sleepers should avoid rooms facing the square.
Nervión, east of the centre, is modern and commercial, around Santa Justa station and the big shopping centres. It makes sense for one night before an early train to Córdoba, Madrid or Granada, but you will take a taxi or a long walk to the old town.
Summer heat. Our Spain guide notes that Seville regularly hits 40°C in July and August. A pool, a rooftop terrace and reliable air conditioning are worth paying for, and a central base matters more than in any other Spanish city, because you will want to go back to the room between about 2pm and 7pm. Sightseeing is for mornings and late evenings.
Holy Week and the April Fair. Rooms sell out and prices jump for Semana Santa and the Feria de Abril, and the processions close streets in the centre. In 2027 Easter falls on 28 March; see our Semana Santa 2027 guide and Feria de Abril 2027 guide, and book months ahead.
Rooms. Patio rooms in old houses are quiet and cool but often have small or interior windows; street-facing rooms are brighter and noisier. Check the check-in hours at small family-run hotels.
Book 3 nights for the Cathedral and Giralda, the Alcázar, Plaza de España and the María Luisa park, Triana, and a slow evening or two. We had 5 days, which in August heat was about right.
Our Western Europe guide calls Seville an excellent base for Andalusia, with rail connections to Córdoba and Granada. Our Andalusia itinerary shows how we fitted it between Córdoba and Cádiz, and our Seville to Granada guide and Córdoba Mezquita guide cover the neighbouring stops. For the rest of Spain, see where to stay in Madrid and where to stay in Barcelona.
Santa Cruz or El Arenal, between the Cathedral and the river. The Cathedral, the Giralda and the Real Alcázar are on foot, and Plaza de España is a walk through the María Luisa park.
Yes, for a real neighbourhood with the Mercado de Triana, riverside bars and ceramics shops. The Cathedral is about a 15 to 20 minute walk, which is a lot in August afternoons.
As central as possible, with a pool or rooftop terrace and strong air conditioning. Seville regularly hits 40°C in July and August, and you will want to return to your room in the afternoon.
The Alameda de Hércules, a long square north of the centre ringed with bars and terraces. Avoid rooms facing the square if you are a light sleeper.
Three for the main sights and a slow evening or two. We spent 5 days in Seville in August 2022.
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