What should you eat in Zadar?

The three that define Zadar

• Maraschino (maraskino). A clear liqueur distilled from marasca sour cherries, which grow in the hinterland around Zadar. Venetian merchants were producing it here on an industrial scale by the mid-1700s, and the Maraska company still makes it in Zadar; its old seafront factory is now a landmark rather than a working plant. Where: any bar in the old town will pour it, and supermarkets and souvenir shops sell the straw-wrapped bottle. Tip: order it as a small digestif after dinner, or look for desserts and cakes made with it; it is strong and sweet, so a single small glass is the norm.

• Paški sir and pršut. Paški sir is a hard, salty sheep cheese from Pag, rubbed with olive oil and aged; pršut is Dalmatian ham dried in the bora wind rather than smoked, with inland Dalmatian villages known for home-cured legs. Together they are the default cold starter. Where: konobas in the back streets of the old town, and the deli counters at the harbour-side market. Tip: order one plate to share before the main course; it is priced per portion and arrives with olives and bread. The Gligora dairy in Kolan on Pag runs cheese tours if you want the source.

• Crni rižot. Black risotto coloured and flavoured with cuttlefish ink, finished with lemon and parsley. Where: almost every konoba on the peninsula. Tip: it is often listed as a starter (predjelo) but the portion is enough for lunch; it stains teeth, so order it at lunch rather than before an evening at the waterfront.

Nine more foods to try in Zadar

• Paška janjetina (Pag lamb). Lamb from Pag, where the sheep graze on salty, herb-covered pasture. Where: grill restaurants on the edge of town and on the road toward Pag; less common inside the old town. Tip: it is often roasted on a spit or under a peka bell, so ask whether it needs ordering ahead.

• Peka. Lamb, veal or octopus slow-cooked under a cast-iron bell covered in embers. Where: konobas with an open hearth, mostly just outside the peninsula. Tip: it takes two to three hours, so restaurants usually ask you to order at lunchtime for dinner, often for a minimum of two people.

• Brudet. A fish stew with tomato, wine and garlic, built in layers so the fish stays whole, served with polenta or bread. Where: seafood konobas in the old town. Tip: it is a home dish first, so it is not on every menu; when you see it, it is usually a sign the kitchen cooks to order.

• Mussels and scampi na buzaru. Shellfish cooked in white wine, garlic, olive oil and breadcrumbs, or with tomato. Where: seafood restaurants along the old town's harbour side. Tip: scampi are often priced by weight; ask for the price per kilo before you agree to the size.

• Grilled whole fish (riba na žaru). Whatever came in that morning, grilled and served with blitva (chard and potato with olive oil). Where: anywhere with a fish counter. Tip: the waiter will often bring the raw fish to the table; the price on the menu is per kilo, so the bill depends on the one you choose.

• Olive oil from Ugljan and Pašman. These two islands sit a short ferry ride across the channel from Zadar and are covered in family-run olive groves. Where: market stalls and delis sell it in plain bottles. Tip: buy a small bottle to taste with bread at your accommodation; it is one of the few food souvenirs that is worth the weight.

• Nin salt. Sea salt from the old salt pans at Nin, a small town just north of Zadar. Where: souvenir shops and delis in the old town. Tip: it is a cheap, light gift and a good reason to pair Nin with a beach afternoon on a day trip from Zadar.

• Fritule. Small fried dough balls flavoured with citrus zest and a splash of rakija, dusted with sugar. Where: pastry shops and festival stalls, especially in winter. Tip: buy them hot by the paper cone; they go soggy quickly.

• Kava and gelato on the Riva. Coffee culture here is long and slow, and the ice-cream counters on the waterfront are busiest just before sunset. Where: the cafes along Široka ulica (Kalelarga), the main street, and the Riva promenade. Tip: ordering a coffee buys you the table for as long as you want it; nobody will rush you.

Markets and where to eat on the peninsula

Zadar's food is concentrated on and around the old town peninsula, which is only a few streets wide. The morning fish and produce market on the harbour side of the old town is the place to see what is in season: figs and peaches in late summer, local cheese and pršut at the covered stalls, and the day's catch at the fish hall. Go early; it winds down by early afternoon.

For dinner, the back streets between the Roman Forum and the harbour hold most of the konobas. The Riva and the promenade toward the Sea Organ are better for a drink than a meal, because the best tables there are about the view. For self-catering, our guide to Croatian supermarkets explains Vegeta, ajvar and which cheese to buy.

If you are staying a few days, see where to stay in Zadar for the old town versus Borik trade-off, and how many days in Zadar for how to split your time.

Tipping and ordering in Zadar

Croatia runs on about 10% for good table service, rounded up rather than calculated to the cent; our Balkans tipping guide has the details. Card payment is normal in restaurants, but leave a tip in cash if you want it to reach the server.

Two ordering habits matter on the coast. Fish and shellfish are priced per kilo, so ask before you choose; and peka needs to be ordered hours ahead. Dalmatian dinner starts later than inland, so 8pm to 9pm is normal in August, after the sunset crowd leaves the Sea Organ.

If you only have one day: a Zadar food plan

Morning: coffee on Kalelarga, then the harbour-side market before 11am for fruit, a wedge of Paški sir and a look at the fish hall.

Lunch: black risotto or brudet in a konoba near the Forum, with a plate of pršut and Pag cheese to share. If you want peka for dinner, order it now.

Afternoon: gelato on the Riva, and a bottle of Maraschino or Ugljan olive oil to take home.

Evening: the Sea Organ and the Sun Salutation from an hour before sunset, as our Zadar guide recommends, then grilled fish or the peka you ordered, and a small glass of Maraschino to finish. Zadar is the Dalmatian end of a country with two kitchens; our Croatia food guide explains the inland half, and what to eat in Zagreb covers the capital.

Frequently asked questions