What should you eat in Dubrovnik?

The three that define Dubrovnik

• Ston oysters (kamenice). Flat European oysters farmed in Mali Ston Bay, at the base of the Pelješac peninsula, about an hour's drive from Dubrovnik. Where: seafood restaurants in the old town and Gruž sell them, but the best place is Mali Ston itself, where the restaurants sit beside the beds. Tip: they are priced per piece, and they usually cost less beside the beds in Mali Ston than in the old town. Eat them raw with lemon only.

• Crni rižot. Risotto made black with cuttlefish ink, with garlic, wine and parsley. Where: konobas in the side streets of the old town off the Stradun, and in Gruž and Lapad. Tip: the same dish is often a few euros cheaper outside the walls than inside, so this is a good one to save for a meal in Lapad or Gruž.

• Rožata. A baked custard with a caramel top, close to crème caramel, flavoured with rose liqueur (rozalin). It is Dubrovnik's signature dessert. Where: traditional restaurants across the city; it is on most menus with a local focus. Tip: it is served chilled, so it is a good dessert in August heat; if a menu lists it as crème caramel, ask whether it is made with rose liqueur.

Nine more foods to try in Dubrovnik

• Zelena menestra. Dubrovnik's old winter stew of smoked and cured meats with cabbage and greens. Where: traditional konobas, more often in the cooler months. Tip: it is filling enough for a main course and one of the few dishes here that is not seafood.

• Stonski makaruli. A sweet cake from Ston made with pasta, walnuts, sugar and chocolate, baked in pastry. Where: bakeries and restaurants in Ston, and occasionally in Dubrovnik. Tip: if you go to Ston for oysters, finish with this; it is hard to find elsewhere.

• Mušule na buzaru. Mussels cooked in white wine, garlic, olive oil and breadcrumbs. Mali Ston Bay farms mussels as well as oysters. Where: seafood restaurants citywide. Tip: keep the bread for the sauce; that is the point of buzara.

• Grilled fish and blitva. The day's catch, grilled and served with chard and potato in olive oil. Where: anywhere with a fish display. Tip: fish is priced per kilo, so ask the weight and price before the kitchen cooks it.

• Pašticada. Beef braised for hours in wine with dried fruit, served with gnocchi. It is a Split dish, but Dubrovnik restaurants serve it widely. Where: traditional restaurants. Tip: a good test of a kitchen, because it takes most of a day to make properly.

• Peka. Lamb, veal or octopus cooked under an ember-covered bell. Where: konobas outside the walls, especially in the Konavle valley to the south. Tip: order hours ahead, usually at lunchtime for dinner.

• Arancini and kotonjata. Candied orange peel and quince paste, Dubrovnik's traditional home sweets. Where: the morning market on Gundulićeva Poljana in the old town, and souvenir food shops. Tip: they keep well and pack flat, so they are the best edible souvenir from the city.

• Pelješac wine. Plavac Mali is the red grape of the Pelješac peninsula, with Dingač and Postup as the best-known named slopes. Where: wine bars in the old town and most restaurant lists. Tip: ask for a local Plavac by the glass before committing to a bottle; Dingač is priced accordingly.

• Prošek. A sweet dessert wine from dried grapes, the Dalmatian answer to a vin santo. Where: wine bars and restaurants. Tip: order a small glass with rožata.

Markets and where to eat in Dubrovnik

There are two markets to know. Gundulićeva Poljana, a square just south of the Stradun near the cathedral, holds a small morning market selling fruit, lavender, dried figs, candied orange peel and quince paste. Gruž, by the ferry port about 3 km west of the old town, has the city's main working market, with fish and produce in the morning.

Inside the walls, the cheapest meals are away from the Stradun and the Old Port, up the stepped side streets toward the north wall. Outside the walls, Gruž and Lapad are where locals eat, at lower prices. If you are planning a day around the walls, read our Dubrovnik city walls guide first; it is best walked early, before lunch and before the heat.

For where to base yourself, see where to stay in Dubrovnik, and for how long to stay, how many days in Dubrovnik.

Tipping and ordering in Dubrovnik

About 10% is normal for good table service in Croatia, rounded up; our Balkans tipping guide has the detail. Check the bill for any cover charge before adding a tip. Card payment is accepted almost everywhere, but leave the tip in cash if you want it to go to the server.

Two Dubrovnik habits save money. Eat your big meal at lunch, when many restaurants run cheaper set menus; and order fish by weight with the price confirmed first. If you are coming from Montenegro, our Kotor to Dubrovnik guide covers the border crossing.

If you only have one day: a Dubrovnik food plan

Morning: the city walls at opening, then Gundulićeva Poljana market for figs, candied orange peel and quince paste.

Lunch: black risotto or buzara mussels in a side street off the Stradun, or in Gruž after the market.

Afternoon: if you have a car or a tour, Mali Ston for oysters and Stonski makaruli; otherwise a swim at Banje or Lapad.

Evening: grilled fish with a glass of Plavac Mali, and rožata with a small prošek to finish. For Ston and other trips out of the city, see day trips from Dubrovnik; for the rest of the country's food, our Croatia food guide and what to eat in Zadar.

Frequently asked questions