What is worth buying at a Croatian supermarket or market, and what should you look for in Istrian and Dalmatian produce?

Vegeta, ajvar and the pantry

Vegeta is the all-purpose seasoning mix, sold in every shop in blue and yellow packaging. It is MSG-based with dried vegetables, and it is genuinely used rather than a tourist item.

Ajvar is the roasted red pepper spread, and the Croatian version is often milder than the Serbian one. It is cheap, sealed and travels well.

Pršut is the cured ham, and Njeguški pršut from neighbouring Montenegro is the smoked version. Dalmatian pršut is air-dried rather than smoked, and sliced packets travel far better than a whole leg.

Paški sir is the hard sheep cheese from Pag, and it is the cheese worth buying.

Oil, truffles and the Istrian shelf

Istrian olive oil is excellent and mostly sold locally rather than exported. Buy a bottle from a producer rather than the cheapest supermarket brand.

Truffles from the Motovun forest come in autumn, and the products range from real shaved truffle in oil to truffle-flavoured products with no truffle in them. Read the label.

Rakija is the fruit brandy, and travarica is the herb-infused version. Both are strong and both travel well.

What is in season

Summer is the peak for tomatoes, figs, aubergine and stone fruit, and the coastal markets are at their best.

Autumn is grape harvest, then olive harvest from roughly October into November.

Winter brings mandarins from the Neretva valley, sold by the crate, and bakalar — dried cod — which is the Christmas Eve dish.

Spring is wild asparagus and the first greens.

Practical notes

Cards are widely accepted in supermarkets, less so at market stalls and small Konzum branches.

Markets run in the morning and finish by early afternoon, and the coastal ones are seasonal — some close entirely outside summer.

Konzum is the chain you will find in the smallest towns, and its smaller formats stay open late.

Our Balkans road trip guide covers the regional route.

Frequently asked questions