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Where to stayBy Clever Tourists · Published
For a first visit, stay in Jongno, around Insadong, Anguk or Jongno 3-ga. It puts Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Bukchon and Insadong on foot, and subway Lines 1, 3 and 5 run through it. Myeongdong is the close second, better for shopping and for airport limousine buses; Hongdae is the pick for nightlife and the AREX train from Incheon. Gangnam only makes sense if most of your plans are south of the Han River. We spent 10 days in Seoul in 2023, in two blocks of 5: on arrival in June and again in July after a month around Korea.
• First visit: Jongno and Insadong, for the palaces and Bukchon on foot.
• Shopping and street food: Myeongdong, with Namsan and N Seoul Tower above it.
• Nightlife: Hongdae and neighboring Yeonnam-dong, on the AREX line from Incheon.
• Families: Myeongdong or the Seoul Station area, for big hotels, airport buses and simple transfers to the KTX.
• Quiet and romantic: a hanok guesthouse in Bukchon or Seochon, west of Gyeongbokgung.
• Budget: Hongdae and Sinchon guesthouses, or the streets around Dongdaemun.
• Business or south-of-river plans: Gangnam or Jamsil.
What it's like: old Seoul's core, between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, with Insadong's tea houses and craft shops, Jogyesa temple, and the hanok lanes of Bukchon up the hill. Our 3 days in Seoul guide recommends basing here so you can walk out to the palaces before the day fills up.
Who it suits: first-timers who want to be at Gyeongbokgung for the 9:00 opening (it is closed on Tuesdays). See our Gyeongbokgung guide and Jogyesa guide.
Downside: quieter at night than Myeongdong or Hongdae, and Gangnam is 30 to 40 minutes away. From Incheon there is no one-seat train; a limousine bus or the AREX to Seoul Station and a subway change is the usual way.
What it's like: traditional tile-roofed houses, some converted into small guesthouses with courtyard rooms and floor bedding. Bukchon sits between the palaces; Seochon is the quieter neighborhood on the west side of Gyeongbokgung.
Who it suits: couples and travelers who want one or two nights in a traditional house, usually as part of a longer stay.
Downside: Bukchon is residential, and since November 2024 visitors who are not staying in the area may only enter its core between 10am and 5pm. Guesthouse guests are excepted, but expect hills, steps, small rooms and shared walls, and keep noise down early and late. Many hanok stays have no lift and limited luggage space.
What it's like: a dense shopping district of cosmetics stores and fashion chains, with street-food stalls in the evenings and Namsan rising behind it. Our night markets guide covers what to eat. Airport limousine buses 6015 and 6001 stop here, and Seoul Station is two subway stops away on Line 4.
Who it suits: shoppers, families and short stays, and anyone arriving with heavy bags; see our Incheon airport guide.
Downside: crowded and commercial, with little left once the shops close. The palaces are a short subway ride rather than a walk.
What it's like: the university district in the west, with buskers, murals, clubs, live music and cheap eating, and the calmer cafe streets of Yeonnam-dong along the Gyeongui Line Forest Park. The AREX All-Stop from Incheon stops at Hongik University station, and Line 2 runs from here across the city.
Who it suits: nightlife, budget travelers and anyone flying into Incheon who wants a single train ride to the door, for under 5,000 won from Terminal 1 with a T-money card.
Downside: loud on Friday and Saturday nights, and 25 to 30 minutes from the palaces. Pick Yeonnam-dong or a side street if you want to sleep.
What it's like: wide avenues, office towers, COEX and Bongeunsa temple in Gangnam, and Lotte World and the Lotte World Tower in Jamsil.
Who it suits: business travelers, theme-park days and anyone whose plans are mostly south of the Han. See our Bongeunsa guide and Lotte World vs Everland guide.
Downside: the palaces, Bukchon and Insadong are 30 to 40 minutes away by subway, and hotels cost more. For a first trip it is the wrong side of the river.
Match your base to your airport route. Hongdae is on the AREX All-Stop; Myeongdong, Jongno and Gangnam are on limousine bus routes; Seoul Station has both the AREX and the KTX to Busan. If you are moving on by train, see our Seoul to Busan KTX guide.
Transit card. Buy T-money on arrival, or compare the unlimited Climate Card; our Climate Card vs T-money guide works out which is cheaper. Being within 5 minutes of a subway station matters more than the district name.
Seasons. Spring blossom in early to mid-April and autumn in October and November are the busiest and most pleasant. The summer rainy season usually reaches Seoul in late June, and the Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays can close small restaurants; see our Seollal guide.
Plan 3 to 5 nights for a first visit; our how many days in Seoul guide sets out what each day covers.
If your flights go in and out of Seoul, split your time as we did: 5 days at the start, then Jeonju, Suncheon, Busan, Jeju, Gyeongju and Sokcho, and 5 more days in Seoul at the end. Change neighborhoods between the two stays, for example Jongno first for the palaces and Hongdae or Myeongdong at the end for shopping and food. The full route is in our 32-day South Korea itinerary.
Jongno, around Insadong, Anguk or Jongno 3-ga. Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Bukchon and Insadong are on foot, and subway Lines 1, 3 and 5 run through it.
Myeongdong for shopping, street food and airport limousine buses. Hongdae for nightlife, budget rooms and a direct AREX train from Incheon.
Yes, in hanok guesthouses. Since November 2024 non-residents may only enter the core of Bukchon between 10am and 5pm, but guesthouse guests are excepted. Expect hills, small rooms and quiet hours.
Only if most of your plans are south of the river. The palaces, Bukchon and Insadong are 30 to 40 minutes away by subway.
Three to five for a first visit. We spent 10 days, split into two 5-day stays at the start and end of our Korea trip.
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