How many days do you need in Bologna?

1. 1Piazza Maggiore & the QuadrilateroArchiginnasio, Two Towers from below1 day
2. 2San Luca & Santo Stefano3.8 km portico walk, go early1 day
3. 3Modena or Parmaabout 30 to 60 minutes by train1 day
4. 4Ravenna or Florencemosaics, or 35 minutes to Florence1 day

The short answer by trip length

• 1 day: Piazza Maggiore, the Quadrilatero market streets, the Two Towers from below, and a long lunch.

• 2 days: add the portico walk to San Luca, the university quarter and Santo Stefano.

• 3 days: add one day trip, Modena or Parma for food, or Ravenna for mosaics.

• 4 days: what we had. Two day trips, or one plus a slow food day.

With more time, Bologna makes a better base than Florence for this part of Italy: cheaper, less crowded, and on the main line in every direction.

Day by day: 4 days in Bologna

Day 1, the centre. Piazza Maggiore and the unfinished brick front of San Petronio, the Neptune fountain, then the Archiginnasio and its wooden anatomical theatre. Lunch in the Quadrilatero, the old market streets east of the piazza, where delis slice mortadella to order. The Two Towers lean over Piazza di Porta Ravegnana; the climb up the Asinelli has been closed since October 2023 during safety work on the Garisenda, with no confirmed reopening date, so check before you plan on it.

Day 2, San Luca and Santo Stefano. Walk from Porta Saragozza under the Portico di San Luca, about 3.8 km and 666 arches, to the sanctuary on the hill. The last 2 km climb steeply; allow 45 to 60 minutes up, and go early in summer. In the afternoon, Santo Stefano, the cluster of linked churches, and the university streets around Via Zamboni.

Day 3, Modena or Parma. Modena is about 20 to 35 minutes by regional train, for balsamic vinegar, its cathedral and Piazza Grande. Parma is about 40 to 60 minutes, for Parmigiano Reggiano, ham and its baptistery. Our route recorded Parma as a day trip from Verona, which is much further; from Bologna it is easy.

Day 4, Ravenna or Florence. Ravenna's Byzantine mosaics are about 75 minutes away by regional train. Florence is about 35 minutes by Frecciarossa, if you want a look without sleeping in it. Details for each are in day trips from Bologna.

Where Bologna fits in a wider route

Our Italy route was Verona (2 days) → Bologna (4) → Venice (3). Bologna in the middle works well: Venice is about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 35 minutes away on a direct high-speed train, and Verona is on the line north toward the Alps.

• Heading to Rome or Tuscany: Bologna is the junction; Florence is about 35 minutes south.

• Heading to Venice: see how many days in Venice.

• Coming from Verona: see how many days in Verona.

Our northern Italy itinerary puts the three cities together for 7 or 10 days.

When to go and where to stay

April to June and September to October are best for walking the porticoes. Summer is heavy and humid, and in August much of the city empties as locals head to the coast, so some family restaurants close. We were there in late July, which is hot but still fully open.

Stay near Piazza Maggiore or the Quadrilatero for the classic centre, or around Via Zamboni for cheaper rooms and a livelier, student feel. Near the station is fine if day trips are your priority. Our Bologna guide has more on the city.

Bologna is the reason many people come to Emilia-Romagna: tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo, mortadella. See what to eat in Bologna, our Italian food guide and, for shopping, what to buy at an Italian supermarket.

A food plan for your Bologna days

Food is the main reason many people give Bologna more than a day, so plan it like a sight.

• Lunch, day one: mortadella, prosciutto and cheese by the slice from a deli in the Quadrilatero.

• Dinner, day one: tagliatelle al ragù, the real Bolognese, always with flat ribbons, never spaghetti.

• Dinner, day two: tortellini in brodo, the small filled pasta served in broth.

• Day trips: Parma for Parmigiano Reggiano and ham, Modena for aged traditional balsamic, which is a different product from the supermarket Aceto balsamico di Modena IGP.

In August some family-run trattorias close for the holidays, so check before you cross town for one. Expect a coperto on restaurant bills; see coperto in Italy.

Common mistakes

• Planning a day around climbing the Asinelli tower. It has been closed since 2023; check the official site.

• Walking to San Luca at midday in summer. The final climb is steep, even under the arches.

• Only giving Bologna a lunch stop between Florence and Venice. Its best things are slow: the porticoes at dusk, a long dinner.

• Ordering spaghetti bolognese. The local dish is tagliatelle al ragù.

Frequently asked questions