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Where to stayBy Clever Tourists · Published
For a first visit focused on the temples, stay by the Chao Phraya River, in the Charoen Krung riverside near Saphan Taksin or in the old town around Rattanakosin. The river boats then take you to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun without touching the traffic. If you care more about nightlife, malls and the Skytrain, stay on Sukhumvit between Nana and Phrom Phong; Silom is the compromise between the two. We spent 10 days in Bangkok over two stays, 6 in December 2022 at the start of our Thailand trip and 4 in January 2023 at the end, and the city rewards picking a different area each time.
• First visit, temples first: the riverside around Saphan Taksin, or the old town and Banglamphu.
• Nightlife: Sukhumvit, between Nana, Asok and Thong Lo.
• Transit-focused: Sukhumvit or Silom, on the BTS Skytrain and MRT.
• Families: Siam and Ratchathewi, for malls, the Skytrain interchange and the Airport Rail Link nearby, or a riverside hotel with a pool.
• Budget: Banglamphu, around Khao San Road and the quieter lanes nearby.
• Quiet or romantic: the riverside, with river views and hotel boats.
• Food-first: Chinatown (Yaowarat).
What it's like: the stretch of the Chao Phraya south of Chinatown, with the city's grand river hotels, old warehouses turned galleries and the creative streets of Charoen Krung. BTS Saphan Taksin connects to Sathorn pier, so you can switch between the Skytrain and the river boats in a few minutes.
Who it suits: first-timers who want both: the Chao Phraya Express boats up to the Grand Palace and Wat Arun, and the Skytrain to the modern city. Our Bangkok guide says the river is the easiest way between the temples, and our 3-day Bangkok itinerary is built around it.
Downside: the river views cost money, and away from the big hotels the side streets are quiet at night. Boats stop running in the evening, so late returns mean Grab or a taxi.
What it's like: the royal island inside the canals, with the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the river, and Banglamphu just north of it, home to Khao San Road and the quieter lanes around Phra Athit and Samsen. MRT Sanam Chai, near Wat Pho, puts the southern end on the subway.
Who it suits: temple-focused short stays and budget travelers. You can be at the Grand Palace for the 8:30 opening on foot, before the heat and crowds, as our itinerary recommends.
Downside: most of the old town has no Skytrain, so getting to the malls, Sukhumvit or Chatuchak takes longer. Khao San Road is very loud until late; stay a few lanes away, toward Phra Athit or Samsen, if you want sleep.
What it's like: a long avenue of hotels, malls, restaurants and bars under the BTS Sukhumvit line, with the MRT crossing at Asok. The western end around Nana and Asok is the busiest and most nightlife-heavy; Phrom Phong, Thong Lo and Ekkamai further east are calmer, with good restaurants and cafes.
Who it suits: nightlife, shopping, longer stays and anyone who wants the widest choice of rooms. Our Bangkok guide notes it trades the temples' walking distance for easy transit.
Downside: the old town and the river are 40 minutes or more away at busy times. Parts of Nana and Soi Cowboy near Asok are red-light areas; families usually prefer Phrom Phong or further east.
What it's like: the business district, with Lumphini Park at its eastern end, the Patpong night market, and both the BTS (Sala Daeng) and MRT (Silom) lines. It runs down to the river at Saphan Taksin.
Who it suits: travelers who want one base for both the river and the modern city, and a good spread of mid-range hotels.
Downside: weekday traffic is heavy and the office blocks are flat on weekends. It does neither the temples nor the nightlife as well as the specialist areas.
Siam and Ratchathewi are the mall district at the center of the Skytrain network, where the two BTS lines meet. The Airport Rail Link from Suvarnabhumi ends at Phaya Thai, about 27 minutes from the airport for under 50 baht. It suits families and short stays with lots of shopping.
Chinatown (Yaowarat) is the best place to stay if food is the point: roast duck, seafood and stalls under neon after dark, with MRT Wat Mangkon on the doorstep and the river a short walk away. Rooms are fewer and the streets are noisy and crowded in the evening.
Pick the station or pier. Bangkok traffic decides your day. A hotel within 5 to 10 minutes' walk of a BTS or MRT station or a river pier is worth paying more for. For everything else, see our Grab vs Bolt guide.
Pools matter. Bangkok is hot even in the cool season. A rooftop or garden pool is not a luxury for an afternoon break between the morning temples and the evening markets.
Seasons. November to February is the cooler, drier peak, and prices rise around Christmas and New Year. Songkran in mid-April fills the city and turns parts of it into a water fight; see our Songkran guide.
Paperwork. File the free Thailand Digital Arrival Card before you land, and pack for the temple dress code.
Plan 3 to 4 nights for a first visit: the royal temples, the canals and Chinatown, Chatuchak or the modern city, and Ayutthaya on a fourth day. See our 3-day Bangkok itinerary and day trips from Bangkok.
Bangkok is usually both the start and the end of a Thailand trip, as it was for us: 6 days before heading north to Ayutthaya, and 4 days after Ao Nang at the end. Use the two stays for two areas, the river or old town first for the temples, Sukhumvit or Silom at the end for shopping and food. The full route is in our 6-week Thailand itinerary, and the north is covered in where to stay in Chiang Mai.
The riverside around Saphan Taksin or the old town around Rattanakosin for the temples, or Sukhumvit for nightlife and the Skytrain. Silom is the middle ground.
Sukhumvit for nightlife, shopping and choice; Silom for a base that reaches both the river and the modern city, with BTS and MRT stations and Lumphini Park.
For budget rooms and walking to the Grand Palace, yes, but stay a few lanes away toward Phra Athit or Samsen, since Khao San Road is loud until late and has no Skytrain.
Siam and Ratchathewi for malls and the Skytrain interchange, or a riverside hotel with a pool. Phrom Phong is the calmer part of Sukhumvit.
Three to four for a first visit. We spent 10 days over two stays, 6 at the start of our Thailand trip and 4 at the end.
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