What Albanian phrases should I learn before visiting Albania?

Greetings and goodbyes

Albanian is written as it sounds once you know a few letters: ë is a short uh (often silent at the end of a word), ç is ch, q is a soft ky, gj is close to j, xh is j, sh is sh, j is y, dh is the th in this and th is the th in think.

Përshëndetje is the all-purpose hello. Tungjatjeta literally wishes someone a long life and sounds warm and traditional; tung is the quick casual version.

Polite essentials

The head gestures can be reversed. Traditionally, a side-to-side shake of the head means yes and a nod means no. Many younger and urban Albanians now use the international gestures, so you cannot predict which you will get. When it matters, say po (yes) or jo (no) out loud and ask for the word back.

Ju lutem means please, and you will also hear it as a reply to thanks. The standard you're welcome is s'ka përse, literally there's no reason.

Eating and drinking

Meals with a host often start with a glass of raki (grape or plum brandy) and the toast gëzuar. You can refuse a refill, but take the first one if you can.

In restaurants you ask for the bill; nobody will bring it unprompted. Fatura is the receipt you may be handed with it.

Shopping and markets

Shops have fixed prices. At markets and souvenir stalls you can ask for a lower price, especially for several items, but keep it light.

Watch for old lek. In 1965 the lek was redenominated at ten to one, and some people, mostly older and in rural areas, still say prices in the old money. Written prices, receipts and menus are always in new lek. If a spoken price sounds ten times too high, it probably is in old lek: divide by ten and check.

Cash is king outside Tirana and the main resorts. Have small notes for furgons (shared minibuses), market stalls and village cafés.

Getting around

Most travel between towns is by bus or furgon (shared minibus), and passenger trains barely feature, so the bus station is the word to know. Drivers and conductors in the south often know some Italian or Greek; English is less common outside the cities.

Numbers

The final ë in numbers is often swallowed in fast speech, so pesë can sound like pess. That, plus old lek, is why it pays to ask for prices to be written down.

Help and emergencies

112 is the general emergency number. The direct lines still work: 129 police, 127 ambulance and 128 fire. In the mountains around Theth and Valbona, signal is patchy, so download maps and an offline translation pack before you go.

Etiquette that matters more than words

Hospitality is a point of honour. Guesthouse hosts may offer coffee, raki or fruit the moment you arrive. Accept something, and expect to sit for a while.

Confirm yes and no out loud. With the reversed head gestures still common among older Albanians, a nod is not a contract.

Dress modestly in mosques and churches. Albania is relaxed about religion, but covered shoulders and knees are expected inside. See the mosque dress code in Albania.

Money customs, including tipping, are in Albania cash culture, ATMs and tipping.

Frequently asked questions