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Where to stayBy Clever Tourists · Published
For a first visit, stay in Malá Strana or the Old Town. Malá Strana, on the castle side of Charles Bridge, is quieter and puts the castle and the bridge within a 10-minute walk; the Old Town puts you on the square before the crowds. Both let you cross Charles Bridge at dawn, when it is nearly empty, which is the single best reason to pay central prices. We spent 5 days in Prague in September 2022, arriving from Morocco and leaving for Bohemian Switzerland, and the centre is small enough that either side works. For a longer stay or a lower budget, Vinohrady is a short tram ride away and much better value.
• First visit: Malá Strana or the Old Town (Staré Město).
• Quiet and romantic: Malá Strana, especially the lanes around Kampa island.
• Nightlife: the Old Town for bars, Vinohrady and Žižkov for pubs where residents drink.
• Budget: Vinohrady, Žižkov or Karlín, a few tram or metro stops from the centre.
• Families: the New Town (Nové Město) or Vinohrady, for larger rooms and easy transport.
• Transit-focused: the New Town near Wenceslas Square or the main station, Hlavní nádraží.
The Old Town is the medieval heart on the east bank of the Vltava: Old Town Square with the Týn Church and the Astronomical Clock, the Jewish Quarter of Josefov and the eastern end of Charles Bridge. Our 3 days in Prague puts it plainly: staying here puts you on the square in the early morning, when it belongs to residents and hotel guests.
It suits first-timers and short stays who want every main sight on foot.
The downside: the highest prices in the city, crowds from mid-morning, and restaurants on the main routes aimed at visitors. Streets near the bars stay loud late.
Malá Strana is the baroque district between Charles Bridge and Prague Castle, around St. Nicholas Church and the island of Kampa. Staying here means crossing the bridge on foot twice a day, including at the hours when it is empty, and walking up to the castle before the tour groups.
It suits couples, photographers and anyone who prefers quiet evenings. Trams run along its riverside edge, and you can take one up to Pohořelec and walk down through the castle complex rather than climbing.
The downside: fewer budget options, steep lanes toward the castle, and fewer places to eat late than across the river.
Despite the name, the New Town dates from the 14th century. It wraps around the Old Town and includes Wenceslas Square, the National Museum and the main metro interchanges. The Old Town is a 5 to 15 minute walk away.
It suits travelers who want central transport and more mid-range hotels for less than Old Town prices, and families who need bigger rooms.
The downside: Wenceslas Square is a busy commercial boulevard and its lower end is rowdy at night. Choose the quieter streets toward the river or toward Vinohrady.
Vinohrady is the residential district east of the centre, with Art Nouveau apartment blocks, the church at Náměstí Míru, the Riegrovy sady park with its view of the castle, and the beer halls our Prague guide recommends because they are not performing for anyone. It is a few minutes from the centre by tram or metro line A.
It suits longer stays, budget travelers and anyone who wants to eat and drink where people who live in Prague do.
The downside: you commute for the main sights, and the walk back from the Old Town late at night is around half an hour.
Žižkov, next to Vinohrady, is the city's pub district, known for its TV tower and its sheer number of local bars. Karlín, by the river to the north-east, is a former industrial district rebuilt with cafés, restaurants and newer hotels, on metro line B.
They suit budget and longer stays, and travelers who like neighborhood evenings over sightseeing evenings.
The downside: neither is a historic setting, Žižkov is hilly, and both mean a tram or metro ride every time you head into the centre.
Airport: there is no train to the airport. The cheapest route is trolleybus 59 and metro line A, about 35 minutes on one public-transport ticket, which makes Malá Strana, the Old Town and Vinohrady easy; see our Prague airport transfer guide.
City fee: Prague charges a per-person nightly accommodation fee, usually collected by the hotel at check-in or check-out. Check whether the price you see includes it.
District numbers: listings often give a postal district. Prague 1 covers the Old Town, Malá Strana, Josefov and much of the New Town; much of Vinohrady is Prague 2, and Žižkov is Prague 3. Prague 1 is the walkable centre; the others mean a short tram or metro ride.
Cobbles: the Old Town and Malá Strana are paved with cobbles and many buildings have no lift. Ask before booking a top floor.
Season: late spring and September, when we were there, are comfortable for walking. The Christmas markets on Old Town Square fill central hotels from late November.
How many nights: three days covers the Old Town, the castle and bridge, and the Jewish Quarter, as in our 3 days in Prague. With five, add Kutná Hora or Karlovy Vary. We went on into Bohemia: Hřensko, then Karlovy Vary, Pilsen and Kutná Hora, all covered in our Prague and Bohemia guide. Before eating out, read what to eat in Prague and tipping in Prague.
Malá Strana or the Old Town. Both let you cross Charles Bridge at dawn and walk to the main sights; Malá Strana is quieter in the evening.
Yes for longer stays or a lower budget. It is a few minutes from the centre by tram or metro line A, with local beer halls, but you commute for every main sight.
The Old Town to be on the square in the early morning; the New Town for transport links and more mid-range hotels at lower prices, 5 to 15 minutes' walk from the Old Town.
Three for the main sights, five to add a day trip to Kutná Hora or Karlovy Vary. We spent 5 days in Prague in September 2022.
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