What should you eat in Prague?

The three that define Prague

• Svíčková na smetaně. Marinated beef sirloin in a smooth sauce of puréed root vegetables and cream, served with sliced bread dumplings, a spoon of cranberries, whipped cream and a slice of lemon. Where: traditional pubs and restaurants in the New Town, Vinohrady and Malá Strana; many serve it as a weekday lunch special. Tip: mix a little cranberry and lemon into each bite; the dish is meant to be sweet-sour, and the garnish is not decoration.

• Vepřo knedlo zelo. Roast pork with bread dumplings and braised sauerkraut. Where: almost every Czech pub. Tip: it often comes with a choice of white or red cabbage; Czechs judge a kitchen by its dumplings, so if they are dense or dry, choose differently next time.

• Smažený sýr. A thick slice of Edam or Hermelín, breaded and fried, served with tartar sauce and fries or boiled potatoes. Where: pubs, canteens and street-food stands around Wenceslas Square. Tip: the tartar sauce is essential; it is also the cheapest hot dish on most menus.

Nine more Czech foods to try in Prague

• Pečená kachna. Roast duck with red cabbage and bread or potato dumplings. Where: traditional restaurants, often a quarter or half duck. Tip: a half duck is a meal for two light eaters.

• Guláš. Czech goulash is a thick beef stew with onion and paprika, served with bread dumplings and sometimes raw onion on top. It is different from Hungarian gulyás, which is a soup. Where: pubs and lunch counters. Tip: order it with a beer; it is pub food.

• Nakládaný hermelín. Camembert-style Hermelín cheese marinated in oil with garlic, onion and chilli. Where: beer halls and pubs as a beer snack. Tip: order it with bread; it is strong, so share a portion.

• Utopenec. 'Drowned man': a fat sausage pickled in vinegar with onions. Where: pubs, in a jar on the bar or on the snack menu. Tip: it is sharp and cold; one per person with a beer is enough.

• Chlebíčky. Open-faced sandwiches on slices of baguette topped with ham, egg, potato salad or spreads. Where: delis and dedicated chlebíčky shops in the centre, and supermarket counters. Tip: the cheapest good breakfast or snack for a day trip; eat them with a fork, standing.

• Kulajda. A sour cream soup with potato, mushrooms and dill, finished with a poached egg. Where: Czech restaurants as a starter. Tip: order it on a cold day before a lighter main.

• Koláče and větrník. Koláče are round pastries filled with poppy seed, plum jam or sweet curd cheese; větrník is a large caramel-cream choux pastry. Where: bakeries (pekárna) and cake shops (cukrárna). Tip: a větrník and coffee is the Czech afternoon cake; koláče keep for a day trip.

• Trdelník. A spit-baked dough spiral rolled in sugar and nuts, sold on every tourist street. It is not a traditional Czech pastry; it arrived as a Slovak and Hungarian sweet and became a Prague tourist staple. Where: Old Town and Charles Bridge stalls. Tip: if you want one, buy it plain; the ice-cream-filled version is a recent invention.

• Czech lager and Becherovka. Pilsner Urquell and other Czech pale lagers, often served from tanks (tankové pivo) of unpasteurised beer in the best pubs; Becherovka is the herbal liqueur from Karlovy Vary, our next spa-town stop. Where: pubs with a 'tankové pivo' sign. Tip: learn the pours: hladinka is the standard with a firm head, šnyt is a smaller pour with more foam, and mlíko is almost all foam, drunk in one go.

Markets and where to eat in Prague

The Náplavka farmers' market on the Vltava embankment below Rašínovo nábřeží runs on Saturdays from 8am to 2pm almost all year, with only a short break around New Year, selling bread, cheese, sausages, coffee and hot food. It is the best single food stop in the city.

Old Town Square and the streets around Charles Bridge are the most expensive and least local places to eat. Walk ten to fifteen minutes into the New Town, Vinohrady or Karlín, or across the river to the side streets of Malá Strana, for pubs where Czechs eat. On weekdays, look for the polední menu, a set lunch of soup and a main that is far cheaper than the evening menu. For self-catering, our Czech supermarket guide covers what to buy.

In December, the Christmas markets on Old Town and Wenceslas Squares sell sausages, ham roasted on a spit and mulled wine; prices are tourist prices. See our Prague Christmas markets guide.

Tipping and ordering in Prague

About 10% is normal for good table service. The Czech habit is to round up and tell the server the total you want to pay as you hand over cash or card, rather than leaving money on the table. Watch for card terminals that prompt for a tip and bills that add a service charge in tourist areas; our Prague tipping guide explains what to do.

In pubs, the server keeps a tally of your beers on a slip on the table and brings a new one when your glass is nearly empty; put a beer mat on top of the glass to stop. Bread, sauces and some starters placed on the table may be charged if eaten, so ask if unsure.

If you only have one day: a Prague food plan

Morning: chlebíčky and coffee, or the Náplavka market if it is Saturday.

Lunch: svíčková or guláš from a polední menu in the New Town.

Afternoon: a větrník in a cukrárna, then Prague Castle and Malá Strana as in our 3 days in Prague itinerary.

Evening: a pub with tank Pilsner, nakládaný hermelín to start, then roast duck or vepřo knedlo zelo, and a Becherovka to finish. If you are going on to the brewery town, see what to eat in Pilsen; for day trips, our Kutná Hora and Karlovy Vary guides. Our Czech food guide has more on each dish, and where to stay in Prague covers the neighbourhoods.

Frequently asked questions