How do you get from Seoul to Jeonju Hanok Village, and what should you do while you're there?

Getting there from Seoul

KTX: trains leave mainly from Yongsan Station (subway Line 4), occasionally Seoul Station, to Jeonju Station, in 1 hour 40 to 50 minutes for around 31,600 won. Book on the official Let's Korail site; third-party resellers add markup and occasionally sell tickets that cause problems at the gate.

Express bus: from Central City Terminal (Express Bus Terminal station) to Jeonju Express Bus Terminal, about 2 hours 40 minutes, and cheaper. The fallback when KTX seats sell out, which happens at weekends and holidays.

From Jeonju Station to the village: a 15-minute taxi for around 7,000 to 10,000 won, or local buses including 79, 81 and 515 which drop you near the entrance.

A day trip is feasible — leave Seoul early, return in the evening — but you will spend five hours travelling and see the village in the busiest hours. One night is much better value for the effort.

What to see in the village

• Gyeonggijeon Shrine: built in 1410, housing the portrait of King Taejo, founder of the Joseon dynasty. Bamboo groves and quiet courtyards away from the main food streets. Free admission in hanbok.

• Omokdae Pavilion: a short uphill walk for the panoramic view over the sea of dark tiled roofs. This is the photograph.

• Jeondong Catholic Church: a red-brick Romanesque cathedral built in 1914 on the site of martyrdom, and the most photographed Western building in the village.

• Craft workshops: hanji paper, traditional fans, pottery. The Jeonju Craft Exhibition Hall is the organised version.

The village is genuinely large and the lanes between the main streets are where it is quiet. Get off the central food street and walk.

Hanbok: rent it, and know why

Jeonju is arguably the best place in Korea to wear hanbok, because the entire setting is hanok rather than a single palace. Dozens of rental shops line the alleys, and packages from one hour to a full day include the outfit, hair styling, accessories and a small bag.

The practical benefit: many sites in the village give free admission in hanbok, including Gyeonggijeon. Premium and royal hanbok with gold foil cost more than the standard package.

Book or arrive early. The good shops run out of the popular sizes by mid-morning at weekends.

The food, which is the actual reason to come

Jeonju is recognised as Korea's culinary capital, and it takes this seriously.

• Jeonju bibimbap: the original style, served in a hot brass bowl with local vegetables and egg. Different from the version you get elsewhere, and better.

• Street food: pultteok (chocolate-filled pastry), munkochi (skewered meat dumplings) and handmade dumplings along the main lanes.

• Makgeolli: the traditional rice wine, served by the kettle in the makgeolli alleys with an expansive spread of side dishes. This is the evening plan.

• Hanok stay: sleeping on a floor mattress over heated ondol floors in a restored hanok guesthouse. Book ahead; the good ones are small.

Practical note: Jeonju is a domestic tourism destination, and the village is busy at weekends with Korean families and school groups. A weekday visit is a different experience.

Frequently asked questions