Clever Tourists
Home
Explore Photos
About
Gear
Locations
Featured
Favorites
Photos As Art
Photo Framer
Contact
← All guides
Istanbul & Cappadocia, Turkey

Istanbul & Cappadocia: a strait, domes & a valley of stone

Turkey bridges Europe and Asia, layering Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman history across a varied landscape. Istanbul straddles the Bosphorus strait with imperial mosques and bazaars; Cappadocia presents an eroded volcanic terrain of rock cones, cave dwellings and dawn balloon flights; Pamukkale spills brilliant white mineral terraces beside ancient ruins; and Ankara, the modern capital, anchors the central plateau. Distances are large, bridged by domestic flights and long-distance buses, and the light is clearest in the temperate spring and autumn months.

Istanbul

Istanbul

Istanbul spans the Bosphorus strait that divides Europe from Asia, the only major city set across two continents. Once capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, it layers monumental mosques, palaces, churches and covered markets across its hills.

The historic peninsula holds the city's grandest monuments: the great domed Hagia Sophia, built as a Byzantine church and later a mosque; the six-minareted Blue Mosque facing it across a garden; and the sprawling Topkapı Palace overlooking the water. The covered Grand Bazaar and the aromatic Spice Bazaar fill nearby streets with one of the world's oldest market traditions.

Across the Golden Horn, the Galata district rises to the cylindrical Galata Tower, with views over the domes and minarets of the old city. Ferries crisscross the Bosphorus past waterside palaces and fortresses, and the call to prayer rising over the rooftops at dawn and dusk is a defining feature of the cityscape.

Where to shoot

  • Hagia Sophia — a monumental sixth-century domed building, successively church and mosque
  • Blue Mosque — an Ottoman mosque with six minarets and a tiled interior, facing Hagia Sophia
  • Galata Tower — a medieval stone tower with a panorama over the old city and Golden Horn
  • Bosphorus — the strait dividing two continents, lined with palaces and best seen by ferry

When to go: April to May and September to October offer mild weather and manageable crowds; April's tulip displays are a highlight, while summer turns hot and humid and winter brings cool, rainy days.

Where to stay: The Sultanahmet district for proximity to the main monuments, or Beyoğlu and Galata for a livelier, more modern base.

What to eat: Kebabs, meze spreads, fresh fish along the Bosphorus, simit bread rings, and strong Turkish tea and coffee.

Tip: Rooftop terraces and the Galata Tower frame the old city's domes and minarets best in the warm light just after sunrise or before sunset.

Explore Istanbul
Goreme

Goreme

Göreme sits at the heart of Cappadocia, a region of soft volcanic rock eroded into cones, pillars and valleys. The town is built into and among the formations, with cave dwellings, rock-cut churches and a celebrated dawn balloon flight over the landscape.

The surrounding terrain, shaped by ancient eruptions and erosion, is dotted with the tapering rock pillars known as fairy chimneys, many hollowed out into homes, hotels and churches. The nearby Göreme Open-Air Museum preserves a cluster of rock-cut Byzantine churches with frescoed interiors carved into the cliffs.

At dawn on suitable days, scores of hot-air balloons rise over the valleys, drifting above the pale rock formations in a scene that has become emblematic of the region. Walking trails thread the Rose, Red and Love valleys, while elevated viewpoints around the town look out over the chimneys and the balloon-filled sky at first light.

Where to shoot

  • Göreme Open-Air Museum — a cluster of frescoed rock-cut Byzantine churches in the cliffs
  • Fairy Chimneys — tapering volcanic rock pillars, many hollowed into dwellings
  • Love Valley — a walking valley of tall rock columns on the edge of town
  • Sunset Point — an elevated viewpoint over the valleys and dawn balloon launches

When to go: Late spring and early autumn bring stable, mild weather ideal for hot-air ballooning and hiking the valleys; summers are scorching and winters can ground balloons, though snow over the fairy chimneys is a rare treat.

Where to stay: Cave hotels carved into the rock in or around Göreme for the signature experience and easy access to the balloon viewpoints.

What to eat: Testi kebabı, a meat stew slow-cooked and served from a sealed clay pot broken at the table, and regional stews and dried fruits.

Tip: Balloon flights launch at dawn; a hillside viewpoint above the town gives a sweeping shot of the balloons rising over the rock formations.

Explore Goreme
Pamukkale

Pamukkale

Pamukkale, meaning cotton castle, is a hillside of dazzling white travertine terraces formed by mineral-rich thermal springs. Above the terraces lie the extensive ruins of the Greco-Roman spa city of Hierapolis.

The terraces cascade down the slope in a series of white basins and pools, built up over millennia as calcium-laden hot water deposits travertine. Visitors walk barefoot across designated sections of the brilliant white surface, with shallow pools reflecting the sky on the upper levels.

Crowning the hill, the ruins of Hierapolis include a large, well-preserved Roman theater, colonnaded streets, a necropolis and the thermal pool where ancient columns lie submerged in warm spring water. The combined natural and archaeological site is UNESCO World Heritage listed, and the white terraces are at their most luminous under the low sun.

Where to shoot

  • Travertine Terraces — cascading white mineral pools formed by thermal springs on the hillside
  • Hierapolis Theater — a large, well-preserved Roman theater above the terraces
  • Cleopatra's Pool — a thermal spring pool scattered with submerged ancient columns
  • Hierapolis Necropolis — an extensive ancient cemetery of tombs along the site's edge

When to go: Spring and autumn offer warm days perfect for wading the travertine terraces without summer's harsh heat or crowds; arrive early in the day any season to beat the tour buses.

Where to stay: The village of Pamukkale below the terraces for proximity, or the nearby town of Denizli for more lodging and transport options.

What to eat: Regional Aegean and Anatolian dishes, grilled meats and meze, with the area better known for its sights than a distinct cuisine.

Tip: The low sun at either end of the day turns the white terraces gold and reflects the sky in the shallow pools.

Explore Pamukkale
Ankara

Ankara

Ankara is the capital of Turkey and its second-largest city, set on the high central Anatolian plateau. A planned modern capital since the 1920s, it combines government quarters and museums with an old hilltop citadel.

The city is dominated by Anıtkabir, the vast hilltop mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the modern republic, set within ceremonial grounds and a museum of the nation's history. The old town clusters around the Ankara Castle, a hilltop citadel of stone walls enclosing narrow lanes and restored Ottoman houses with views over the city.

Ankara is also home to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, housed in a restored covered market and recognized for one of the world's richest collections of Hittite and early Anatolian artifacts. As a working administrative center on the steppe, it offers a more everyday, less touristic counterpart to Turkey's coastal and historic destinations.

Where to shoot

  • Anıtkabir — the monumental hilltop mausoleum of Atatürk within ceremonial grounds
  • Ankara Castle — a hilltop citadel of old walls and lanes with views over the city
  • Museum of Anatolian Civilizations — a leading collection of Hittite and early Anatolian artifacts
  • Hamamönü — a restored district of Ottoman houses and craft workshops below the citadel

When to go: May to June and September to October bring pleasant weather for the capital's museums and Atataurk's mausoleum; the high plateau means cold, snowy winters and hot, dry summers.

Where to stay: The Kızılay and Çankaya districts for central, modern lodging, or near the citadel in Ulus for proximity to the historic old town.

What to eat: Ankara tava, a baked lamb-and-rice dish, döner, and hearty central Anatolian stews and pastries.

Tip: The citadel walls give the best elevated view over the city and the surrounding plateau, especially in the clear light of late afternoon.

Explore Ankara

See every destination from the 526-day journey:

Browse all destinations

Curious about the gear behind these photos? See the gear list.